It's been said that a "house divided cannot stand." Be that as it may, when it comes to soup, I am willing to fight a noble battle.
I happen to relish the virtues of a warm and comforting bowl of soup. Is there anything more satisfying on a chilly night? Louis De Gouy, celebrated chef of the Waldorf Astoria and Gourmet magazine, wrote a book devoted to soup in which he praised it as "cuisine's kindest course."
"It breathes reassurance, it offers consolation; after a weary day it promotes sociability ... there is nothing like a bowl of hot soup," he wrote.
However, my unbridled enthusiasm for soup is not matched by everyone in my house. My husband will eat soup for dinner, but it must be hearty and "include some protein." Otherwise, he tends to side with Jay Leno who joked that "Soup is just a way of screwing you out of a meal." My 10- and 11-year-old daughters, on the other hand, are highly suspicious of soup. They tend to see it as a vehicle to serve them potentially questionable vegetables. So, what's a soup-loving cook to do?
I was pondering this question while reading Stanly Tucci's memoir, "Taste," when I came across a chapter that mentioned pasta fagioli. While reading his recipe, I found myself inspired. Could this be the soup that finally bridges the great divide?
I knew I would have to create my own version, without the potentially offending Tuscan kale and tomatoes. After studying a few recipes, I finally decided to create a white pasta fagioli with a flavorful base of pancetta and leeks. The result was a soup that everyone could enjoy.
I sat in wonder that night as I watched my family happily eating soup together. I'm not letting this victory go to my head, because I know I might never fully win the battle over soup. Still, I appreciate this recipe because - like our family - it's better for all the different tastes and personalities that shaped it.
- Amy McCauley is the paper's food columnist. Readers can email her at
